Two Hats in Tepoztlán

The Art of Choosing Each Other Every Day

Xoco loved her white hat. Not because it matched her embroidered blouse, stitched over countless evenings by the soft shine of a paraffin lamp, nor because it kept the sharp afternoon sun from her eyes. She loved it simply because it was a gift and she wore it because, thirty-eight years earlier, a shy young man had caught her eye across the crowded market square and said, ‘A white hat suits someone who carries peace.’

She had laughed back then. ‘You do not even know my name.’

‘No,’ he admitted, his smile softening. ‘But I hope to.’

That was how Itzcuin entered her life, not with grand declarations, but with gentle courage and a wide smile. He was neither the wealthiest farmer in the valley nor the most striking. His hands were calloused from working the soil, and he spoke slowly, choosing his words as carefully as he planted seeds. Xoco, by contrast, was quick-witted and stubborn enough to argue with the village priest. To the rest of Tepoztlán, they seemed an odd match. To each other, they simply fit.

Love, they quickly learned, was built in the small, quiet sacrifices. When torrential rains destroyed Itzcuin’s first harvest after they married, Xoco secretly sold her prized hand-woven shawl to buy fresh seeds. A few years later, when illness left Xoco bedridden after the birth of their second child, Itzcuin patiently learned to braid their daughter’s hair. It came out crooked every morning, but it made Xoco laugh, a sweet sound that echoed in their home for decades.

Life was rarely easy. There were lean seasons when the maize failed, lean years when money slipped through their fingers, and heavy nights when worry sat between them like an uninvited guest. Yet every hardship ended the same way: with one reaching across the woven blanket to take the other’s hand before sleep took them.

Neither of them quite remembered when the ritual began. One spring morning, after their children had grown and left to build lives of their own, Itzcuin returned from the town fair with a quiet surprise.

‘This one is for you,’ he said gently, placing a white woven hat upon her head.

‘And yours?’ she asked.

‘The cream one.’

‘Why two different shades?’

He gave a slight shrug. ‘Because love is not about being identical. It is about belonging.’

From that day on, every Sunday as they strolled through the cobbled square, they wore those two hats. Neighbours and tourists often mistook them for newlyweds, as Itzcuin still rested his arm over Xoco’s shoulders as though afraid a sudden breeze might carry her off. They would smile warmly at the mistake, but they never corrected it. In truth, they still found fresh reasons to fall in love each week.

One warm afternoon, a visiting photographer paused and asked if he might take their picture.

‘Stand a little closer,’ the man suggested, adjusting his lens.

Itzcuin only smiled and stayed right where he was. He was already as close to her as a man could be. The shutter clicked. The photograph captured far more than two figures sitting together on a stone bench. It held thirty-eight years of shared harvests, gentle apologies whispered in the dark, kitchen dances without music, birthdays celebrated with simple sponge cakes, tears wiped away in silence and a promise renewed every ordinary day.

Long after the paper print faded with time in its wooden frame, their love remained right where it had always lived: not in grand, perfect moments, but in the thousands of quiet ones that, stitched together like the bright thread on Xoco’s blouse, made something truly extraordinary.

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About Me

Former diplomat and globetrotter, Dan Costinas is a versatile contemporary writer, translator, and editor. A true polyglot, he has authored and contributed to several dozen books spanning mainly fiction, essays, aphorisms, reviews and criticism, journalism, and poetry.

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